Imagine a beloved neighborhood butcher shop, a cornerstone of Melbourne's Little Italy for decades, suddenly facing an uncertain future. That was the grim prospect for customers of Donati’s Fine Meats when its founder, Leo Donati, announced his retirement. But here's where it gets heartwarming: a familiar face has stepped in to ensure this iconic Lygon Street institution lives on. And this is the part most people miss—it’s not just about saving a business; it’s about preserving a cultural legacy.
Updated January 19, 2026, and first published on the same day, the news broke that Donati’s, a Lygon Street staple since 1972, would remain a butcher shop under new ownership. Jamie Valmorbida, whose family name is synonymous with King & Godfree—the historic deli and grocer just down the street—has taken the reins. For many, this feels like a passing of the torch between two families deeply rooted in Carlton’s history.
When 77-year-old Leo Donati shared his retirement plans late last year, it sent ripples of concern through the community. Would Carlton’s Little Italy lose its last remaining butcher shop? But here’s the twist: Valmorbida, already a prominent figure in the area’s hospitality scene, has vowed to keep the shop’s essence intact. From the pork sausages and veal to the classical music and cow-themed artwork, he promises business as usual—at least for now.
“The shop is already thriving,” Valmorbida said. “My role is to protect that legacy. While we see potential to grow the brand down the line, our immediate focus is on getting the basics right.”
Donati’s is more than just a place to buy meat. It’s an experience. The shop is renowned for its eclectic ambiance: classical music fills the air, fresh flowers adorn the counter, and conversations range from current affairs to classical composers. And this is the part most people miss: it’s these unique touches that have made Donati’s a cultural landmark, not just a butcher shop.
Valmorbida takes possession on January 30 and will work closely with Leo’s son, Marcello, to ensure a smooth transition. Longtime butcher Sam Spagnuolo, who’s been slicing and dicing for over 20 years, will stay on, while Mark Glenn, executive chef at several Valmorbida venues, will oversee operations. Plans are also underway to recruit a head butcher and build a team that blends current and former staff.
“Replacing Leo and Marcello is impossible,” Valmorbida admitted. “But creating a unique service experience will be our top priority.”
While Valmorbida is tight-lipped about future plans, he hinted that any changes—including potential new products—are at least six to 12 months away. “The beauty of Donati’s is what it already is,” he added. “We won’t alter the core, but we’ll experiment around the edges.”
The sale itself came about almost serendipitously. Valmorbida was picking up a Christmas ham when Leo jokingly asked if he’d buy the business. “I said, ‘You’ve planted the seed,’ and I meant it,” Valmorbida recalled. “From there, things moved quickly.”
Both families have long been pillars of Lygon Street. The Valmorbida name has been tied to King & Godfree since 1955, and in recent years, their portfolio has expanded into hospitality, mirroring the street’s evolution. Their ventures include Johnny’s Green Room, Pidapipo gelato shops, and the soon-to-reopen King & Godfree, which has been closed since July 2024 for renovations.
Leo Donati expressed confidence in the transition. “Jamie shares our values of quality, craft, and commitment to Carlton,” he said. “Marcello and I know Donati’s is in good hands as it enters its next chapter.”
But here’s where it gets controversial: Can a new owner truly preserve the soul of a place like Donati’s, or will it inevitably lose some of its charm? Valmorbida’s promise to maintain the status quo is reassuring, but only time will tell. What do you think? Can a beloved institution like Donati’s remain unchanged under new leadership, or is evolution inevitable? Share your thoughts in the comments—we’d love to hear your take!
